Looking ourselves in the eye.

Looking ourselves in the eye.

June 2023.…. In planning to trek with Chimps and see Uganda , I had imaginatively created a tour of just about all of the country’s 8 national parks. I was to discover that I was perhaps a little ambitious in terms of time and money .. so, I decided on (with the expert advice of the @oryxphototours tour team) :Kibale forest for trekking chimps and Bwindi impenetrable reserve forest for trekking Gorillas.

I don’t have an extensive knowledge of evolution at all, in fact I have little thought around it and never read to far into it. I believe in a creator, my God, who I believe to be almighty and all powerful beyond the boundaries of human understanding.

Then, looking into the eyes of a chimpanzee, is something that will definitely get anyone thinking twice about the human connection to them. They have some very blatant similarities and one feels you can almost communicate. A blueprint seemingly applied to us and them comes to mind.

If there is one animal that could move us humans to save our natural spaces, I think the chimpanzee is it. You find yourself feeling comfortable, connected and empathetic in their presence.

Now Africa beats to her own kind of rhythm in a nature of adaptation in response to all she has endured over the centuries. Each country has had its own challenges and in my opinion where they/Africans are today ( ‘they’ meaning the communities, the real people not the politicians or leaders or economies), is largely representative of their unity and solidarity as a people. I would be proud to be Ugandan, is what I’m getting at! A beautiful people in my opinion, from the guide who collected us at 2 am in Entebbe to the lady that braided my hair in Buhoma village. Means do not dictate manners or dignity. The civilians are super respectable, whether in a Toyota Landcruiser or riding side-seat on the public transport of choice, a boxer dirt motorbike, whether city or country. For me, the people complete the safari – always!

Meeting a new culture in the Ugandans, brothers and sisters from another African mother, seeing the struggles of humanity in each other eyes and then looking into a chimps eyes and seeing a similar cognisance to mine, I was reminded we are of one maker.

It is fascinating to see the chimps behave similarly to us humans in so many ways. Grooming, comforting, relaxing, eating and sleeping. Some seeking solitude and others a play mate. Speaking of mates, they have structures and rules for this too. They have a main Chimp or Chief and he has rights and privileges. He has his ladies and his buddies. He has threats to his position and he even grows old and weak like we do.

Watching their everyday routines and interactions, you could forget their primal posture.

Quickly though, we dismiss them as animals when they begin to shriek and cavort in an “undisciplined “ manner, but ‘are WE really that much more disciplined or ‘cultured’?’ I think to myself.

Starting to track chimps, you have no map of the direction or distance this could cover. A sense of nervous anticipation arises, not of chimps so much, but the wider unknown forest creatures like fire ants in your pants …and for possibly missing the shot you want, and also just how strenuous this is going to be (should I have hired the 6 porters to carry me and my gear back out of the forest once we’ve found the chimps?)

Humility and anxiety grow into fascination and of-course excitement, when you have finally located the troop and you’re on foot in their world. Girded with gaiters and gloves, you blindly follow your trusted guide into the thick uncut (no neat trails cut for you) forest to find your closest primate being.

No-idea-Jen over here, totally underestimated the strength and fitness of a chimp… they are some very powerful animals. Respect quickly grows over blind bravery and I heed the guides instructions to keep up and stay aware of the Chimps movements in relation to me.

We followed a troop of angry males chasing after a female in estrous, up and down the uncut slopes of the forest. The males shrieking and beating the base of the forest trees like drums in a chant. A spectator in the wings of a Broadway show, that’s how it feels climbing around on the forest floor watching and listening to the family of chimpanzees, as they “admonish this senior female for mating out of line,” the guide explained.

The punishment is vicious but she finally escapes into the top canopy of a tree. All her assailants surrounding her in the same and nearby trees. Now distracted by two other females in season, they let her be. We rested below the chimps on the forest floor, checking carefully not to disturb the feared fire ants as we sat down!

As we catch our breath and find a drink of water, it sinks in what a privilege it was to witness this intimate part of their lives!

Not all chimp tracking excursions have this kind of action. We were very fortunate to share their world at that moment. Every encounter with a chimp however, is electric.

Each individual is just that, an individual, like we too are all unique. Mom chimps have their tiny baby clinging to their bellies and are super protective, just like us. They definitely fuss a lot less over the little ones and growing up chimp is just a little more ruthless than growing up human I think. The moms are very astute at removing themselves from the “crazies” in the troop though, so, to have a little time with a mom and a baby was very special.

Another very special encounter was with an older male chimp, a grandad I thought. He was minding his own business in the forest undergrowth. He allowed us to sit near him and observe him ponder his world. What we are to them, I am not sure of, perhaps just another forest inhabitant, a non competitive species. They certainly behave like we are just a part of their forest.

I am so much more aware of ours and the animals’ interdependence in this fast changing world. The uncertain climates of today highlight the effect our choices in living on the planet have on the chimpanzees world.

Their forest home, Kibale, is so very beautiful and largely untouched by our human impact since its preservation. I can’t help think how much richer we would all be if we’d started to preserve these spaces sooner. I am positive though, if there is enough understanding and will in the human race, we will rebuild the balance. Will! Do we have the will to change?

Hoping my little window on the chimps, more so through my images, will inspire your choices everyday towards a better balance for our planet.

For no matter category, creed or colour, we breathe the same air and there is only so much to share!